July 5th, 2008 - That’s What I Call Southern Hospitality

It is July 5th and my first day in Oaxaca, Mexico. In the words of my new friend from Chicago, “I am already in love!” However, you can awe at the beauty for yourself (I’ve attached a few pictures).

I would like to write about the welcome that I received not only from my host family, but from everyone in the city. As my friends and I explored the majestic and picturesque plazas, alleys, and parks, we couldn’t help but notice that everyone had a smile on their face (unless of course they were bargaining for food or clothes). “Buenos dias,” and “hola,” were on everyone’s lips, to a point where I forgot I was in a city and thought I was amidst a people I had known since my toddler years. My Spanish is far from perfect, but that did not seem to get in the way of communication, because a smile and laugh have turned out to be my most useful vocabulary. And be they tourist or native, I was invited by all to jump into this rich and joyous culture.

Yet by none more so than my friend’s host family. One of my fellow “Intrax-ees” is staying with a few generations of mothers (grandmother, daughter, granddaughter, and so on) and today was the grandmother’s birthday. When I got to her house, her family invited us in, no questions asked, and promptly started feeding us (which seems to be the most consistent custom among Oaxacans). I wasn’t sure what to do with myself, because the situation I was in (intruding on a family gathering in a foreign country) doesn’t come around too often. But hey, the food was fantastic so we joined the party. We all started talking, my opening line of, “the stupid airline lost my luggage!” line worked as a great icebreaker (even if you haven’t traveled you can probably relate to that one) and as the conversation continued, I realized that in fact, we hadn’t “intruded” or “barged in.” It was a custom to open your home to strangers here. I was a tradition to talk away your problems over great food and with lively people.

It was the culture of the Oaxacans to show kindness I never thought could exist in a world where it’s ‘every man for himself.’ You can say I was pleasantly surprised, but that would be an understatement. I was charmed, swept off my feet and instantly in love with this wonder of city. All I could think about was how this could never happen back in the states. But now that I think about it more, why not? Maybe if we all just stop thinking we can’t, we will. Maybe, just maybe, if we show even half the trust Oaxacans have given me, a complete stranger, we could be just as inviting and welcoming. I come from New York, so I can’t speak for the entire country, or even for the northeast region, but as far as I can tell, this is what I call Southern Hospitality!

July 11th, 2008 - El Mercado

Oaxaca is never boring, but especially on Fridays. Today during our conversation class we visited the organic market - with food and music in every corner. I, of course, had to try everything - the pizzas, the juices, the chocolate, and last but not least the herbal lotions. I got to practice my Spanish (then again, when don’t I?), and taste the food of Oaxaca. Also, no offense to the US, but the vegetables and fruits were so rich and plentiful in color, it was hard to compare to the selection we have in New York. Granted, this was the organic market, but nonetheless, the fruits here are sweater and the vegetables juicier.

Then, we went to the the Conzatti market, which is basically a huge flee market in the most beautiful park ever! I ran straight to the music section and spent about an hour trying out CDs. Salsa, cumbia, samba, rock, alternative, you name it, was in no short supply, and listening to great music with you friends is never upsetting. I ended up buying Salsa en Las Venas, Mana, Belanova, Rhythms del Mundo, and Celina Cruz (save the best for last, of course!).

But let me explain further about the market. It was a mixture between color, music, and opinions that created an inescapable spirit. Although I didn’t have the opportunity to get into a conversation with any of the natives (because I do that every else) I did get to at least immerse myself in this is cultural stew.

Finally, as my friend and I sat in the park by a fountain, and watched the awesome futbol game in front of us, I could see why Oaxaca is considered such a treat for the soul - because it is so easy to switch between busy and bustling to peaceful and tranquil. It doesn’t get better than that.

July 14th, 2008 - Monte Alban

On Saturday, July 12^th I visited the historic Zapotec city of Monte Alban, an experience I’ll never forget. After driving for only 20 minutes, we embarked on an upward climb along of the hills leading up to the city. Although not that steep, the hill was slippery from the rain and nonetheless made me quite tired. It helped me imagine how the Zapotecs and Mixtecs traveled by foot (for, they had neither animal nor machine that could simplify travel) everywhere they went. However, the hike to the top was worth it.

As the ruins slowly unfolded before our eyes, the rainy clouds parted and it felt like standing on Mount Olympus, with all the gods of the past. We climbed steep stepped pyramids, walked across fields of plazas, and marveled at the architecture, the resilience of mankind’s creation, and the thought that all make up Monte Alban. We saw decipherable and non-decipherable hieroglyphics, and learned that Mexico is actually currently funding a campaign to preserve the 150 ancient languages of the pre-Spanish world. (Fun fact: Oaxaca is home to 70 of them!) What struck me the most was the thought that went into planning the main plaza. I learned that the builders of Monte Alban worked during the Classic Period, the climax of

Mesoamerican culture, if you will, and thus were very religious and knowledgeable of astronomy. Therefore, their structures are positioned in a way to best observe the stars and learn the secrets of the universe. For example, one the of the buildings is built as a pentagon and another, the observatory, is positioned so that all sides of the building are advantageous vantage points for watching the stars.

In addition, we were allowed to explore the tombs where out of 200+ shrines, only one was found untouched (not looted) - Tomb 7. I know, I know, very Indiana Jones of me, but I couldn’t help but look around the tomb and see if the archeologists had overlooked anything during their excavation. To my disappointment, they were extremely scrupulous. However, I did see the jewels and other treasures that were found there in the Monte Alban museum.

And finally, I’d like to share with you some very interesting facts our tour guide told us:

1) Monte Alban got its name after the Spanish came and misheard the name of the city, which meant “on the tip of the nose of the chippook (I might have misheard/spelt the name) tree” (the native tree, which blooms white flowers every year). Also, it might be that it was named so by the Spanish because the blooming trees make it look like a “white mountain.”

2) The ruins that tourists see today are only the ruins of the major temples, designed for the elite high class. In fact, only 12% of Monte Alban has been excavated and studied.

3) The ball game that was played was almost like tennis, except instead of a racket the players would use a five kilogram glove and a the ball would be one kilo.

So that was my visit to Monte Alban!

July 15th, 2008 - Salsa and More Photos!

In my “about me” page, you may have noticed that I love to dance. But ballet and tap are just the beginning. I love modern dance, jazz, and especially salsa. That’s why I’m so glad I came to Mexico.

Here, the salsa clubs are amazing! I’ve met people who just love the rhythm of salsa, meringue, and cumbia, people who come for the company of great people, and people who are professionals looking to maintain their technique. It’s really magnificent when you think about it – I have access to a whole world at the tip of my fingers. Right here two blocks away from my house, I can meet people who’ve won prestigious dance titles or people (like me) who just want to dance. Also, all the music is live, so it gives the experience a much richer feeling – because after all, what’s better than seeing, hearing, and feeling the music all the same time?

Also, the “party” never really stops in Oaxaca. In my previous post I talked about the market. Well, the market(s) (there are too many to count) are always filled with live music, with dancing couples, and with so much food you would explode just seeing all of it. I have yet to try an entire meal from the market because you have to be very careful here (bacteria, etc) but I’ll build up the courage to do so, promise.

And also, I uploaded my photos to photobucket and you can see them at:

http://s337.photobucket.com/albums/n380/irenedeee4/

click on “Mexico” under “albums” and then check out my pictures and slideshows! Thanks!

July 17th, 2008 - Santa Domingo

Ivory: 6,000,000,000 USD

Gold: google USD

Artisan Labor: 8^1000 USD

Seeing Santo Doming with your own eyes: Priceless

I’ve seen the MET, I’ve seen the Cloisters of Manhattan, I’ve seen the Crown Plaza Hotel, and more. But I’ve never seen anything even remotely like the museum of Santo Domingo.

We entered into a large courtyard, with a fountain (that was unfortunately turned off but was gorgeous nonetheless) vaulted ceilings, and ivory columns galore. Now that I think about it, it looked very much like the Alhambra, but whitewashed. As we walked through there, we got closer and closer to (on a scale of 1 to 10) a sight that rates a 50. This was the grand staircase to the upper floors of the monastery. Not only were the walls completed covered in very Muslim-like designs, but every single curvature was gilded and ornamented to absolute perfection (I say Muslim because I figure the Moor influence was still very prominent in Spanish design in the late 1400s and early 1500s, which is when this church was built). To think, all of this was done by hand!

We proceeded through the relatively narrow hallways to the rooms that originally were used as dormitories by the monks, but now house artifacts from the church, from archeological sites within Oaxaca, and from nearby ancient cities, such as Monte Alban. I saw ancient tools, figurines (which I learned were put to great use as “tomb watchers” – set beside the casket of an important personage to watch over their resting place and protect them from physical and spiritual evil), and treasure. Now, when I say treasure, I actually mean treasure. Santo Domingo is home to the treasures found in Tomb 7 – a famous tomb of Monte Alban where archeologists found almost fully preserved jewels of the past. I saw jewelry, pottery, pen decorations, and most fantastic of all, a decorated skull. This artifact is perhaps the most well known of the treasures found in Tomb 7, because of its beauty and wholeness. It is a skull covered in beautiful turquoise ceramics that’s a jaw opener for anyone who encounters it. I can only imagine how important one had to be to have their remains decorated in magnificent jewelry. I used to think mummification was cool, but this, this totally blows that out of the water!

We then explored other rooms: gastronomy, beverage making, medicine, and theatre. The latter was most certainly the best. The masks I saw here were just as fantastic as any commedia del’arte mask or Japanese mask I have yet to see, because these pieces embodied so much spirit and character just in one position, it was mind boggling to think about what kind of festivals they must have held 500 years ago. (Although if you check out my pictures on photobucket you’ll see my photos of some current festivals that use some pretty awesome masks, too :D).

Finally, we came into a hallway that had the most ornate ceiling I have yet had the honor to stand under. In the pictures, you’ll see only fragments, but even they are enough to give you some idea of what it was like to stand under such a piece, no, MASTERpiece and marvel at its beauty. I couldn’t believe that 500 years ago it was possible to not only build ceilings that high (after all, we’re still talking about the late middle ages, early renaissance period, and in no way is this church gothic – so not that many flying buttresses) with that much detail in them. I guess I just didn’t realize how crafty the Spanish really were.

That was my adventure today. And guess what? That’s a NORMAL day in Oaxaca.

Oaxaca on a Tuesday afternoon…

Mexican Skateboarder showing off for us…

July 18th, 2008 - Amazing Day

I know that I usually pick a specific event to talk about in my blog entries, but my day yesterday was just so amazing from start to finish that I cannot help blurting it all out. Feel free to skip around in the upcoming paragraphs.

As always I had classes in the morning – which were as saturating as usual. During our conversation class, some students went to volunteer at CRIT, which is a rehabilitation center for children. Considering that is what I want to do with my life, I should have been there too, but I didn’t get a chance to go because I don’t have passport photos for my id – but I’ll get those soon. As soon as I do, though, I’ll be sure to write all about it, because when we visited the center it was really heartwarming and inspirational to feel the spirit that presides in those colorful, playful walls. But more about that later…

After classes, I went home for another fantastic meal with my family. We ate soup, enchiladas rojas, and bananas with crème. Oh yea, and we had homemade juice with our meal, just to top it all off. I didn’t mention this in my first post, but I cannot get over how plentiful the meals are here. When we eat, we really take a break from the hustle and bustle of the day, which is something a New Yorker like myself is not used to in the slightest. Lunch (almuerzo for those who are curious) is the biggest meal of the day and the most fun (no, not only because I like to eat a lot) because I get a chance to talk to Gilberto, my host father, and the other students living in the Cuevas Carrasco residence. He is a retired biology and math teacher, but he seems to be a teacher of everything, because he knows everything about anything worth knowing. Yesterday he was telling me about the events coming up in the Guelaguetza – tonight there will be the election of the woman who will play “Diosa Centeotl,” the physical embodiment of the Guelaguetza festival….and guess who’s going?!

After lunch, I ran over (everything here is within walking distance) to the Museo de los Pintores Oaxaquenos and saw photographs and paintings – the former mainly of the city and the latter mainly very modern and abstract. I’ll post the pictures tomorrow on photobucket – definitely check them out because they are out of this world, especially the photos.

Afterwards, I ran back (well, ok, fine, I stopped and shopped along the way – the markets are just so irresistible) to school for my intercambio – a two hour “class” in which I talk with a local resident in English – which is practice for them – and then in Spanish – which is practice for me. Well, in words it sounds a little boring, because it can be hard to find topics of discussion for two hours. But my amiga Breeze was just fascinating! She’s a computer programmer for a local firm here, but is also part of a folkloric group that is part of the Guelaguetza festival(s). Although she doesn’t have time to dance for the festival anymore, she still gets free tickets to everything happening next week (because the festival lasts for an entire week….and with all the pre-parties and after-parties it’s more like one month). So I ask you again, guess who’s going?!?!?! I’m excited beyond belief, because not only will I get to practice my Spanish, I get to witness and participate first hand in all of the cultures of Oaxaca.

Then (I know, I know, when will it end….but bear with me) I rushed over (yes, I shopped again along the way) to el Teatro Juarez for the modern dance performance of the show La Llorona. I’ve seen Martha Graham, I’ve seen Alvin Ailey, and I’ve even seen Eifman, but never, never in my entire life have I seen choreography this amazing. The story of “The Crying Woman” varies between Latin American counties, but this show told a story of a prostitute, who would abort her children and throw them in the river. After she died God told her that she may not enter heaven until she found all of the children she had aborted, and now wanders around the earth looking for her hijos. What struck me most was the passion that the dancer playing La Llorona had in every movement. Granted, the technique of the troupe was not of the par of New York companies that I’ve seen, but the choreography and the passion was beyond me. I walked out of the theatre still speechless and craving more, because the combination of perfect choreography, dramatic dancing, and fantastic lighting, backgrounds, and costumes was more than I could handle in one hour. And I didn’t even mention the funniest part – the seats cost only five dollars. In New York, you’d be lucky if you got a bottle of water for that much.

By now my day is coming to a close. I went home still raving about the show to all my friends, bursting into rants about one part of another and commenting on the flawlessly placed choreography. When I got home I did my homework – which is great because it’s not busy work, meaning I actually learn a lot from it. Then, the put the cherry on top of the delicious cake that was my day and scrumptious frosting that was my evening. I went to La Candella – the local salsa club where EVERYONE is well versed in their salsa, cumbia, meringue, bachata, and everything else under the sun. I had a great night just dancing and talking, and did I mention dancing? Finally, I started to feel very tired, so I went home after a long day and crashed into a deep sleep, the best I’ve had yet.

So all in all, Oaxaca is the city of dreams. Galleries (you can check out those photos on photobucket tomorrow), museums, churches, plazas, markets, festivals, and just a park to relax in – you name it, it’s here. It’s too good to be true, to be quite frank, but then again when I remember how much money I’m spending I slap back into reality. Which is always great…not! But seriously, I’m having an amazing time here, if that’s not apparent from the blogs, and would recommend (and would pay for your trip if I had the money) for everyone to visit at least once in your lifetime. As my friend from Queens said (I’ve been raving about this trip on facebook to her, of course), “put it on your bucket list.”

July 22nd, 2008 - Mitla

Last Saturday our group had the opportunity to go to Mitla, an archeological site much like Monte Alban. At least, that’s what they told us originally. What we didn’t know was that along the way we would stop by Arbol de Tule and Tapetas – two amazing and amazing different places.

Our first stop was Arbol de Tule, which if you google you’ll probably get a bunch of pictures of human chains spanning dozens of people trying to grip its trunk. That’s because it’s the widest tree (something like 30 meters in diameter) in the world, and one of the oldest (it’s been around as long as Christianity). If you check on photobucket, you’ll see a bunch of pictures of my hand with some leaves of the tree – that’s because I actually touched the biggest and possibly the OLDEST tree in the world (in other words, I couldn’t resist).

And Tule (the town) was absolutely charming. There was a band marching and playing for a religious festival (a church was built by the Spanish right under the tree), the fountains in the parks were sprouting water almost in slow motion, and the backdrop of the mountains was breathtaking. I even ran into my host father, because it turns out it was a family friend’s birthday and they were celebrating in Tule!

We then moved on to Tapetas – where, appropriately, they make tapestries in the traditional Zapotec style and using the same methods. We watched as a woman made the yarn (of course, it was more like watching an infomercial- everything was already prepared to move the process along faster), dye the yarn, spin the yarn, and finally, create the pattern.

When they asked for volunteers to spin the yarn, I was the only one willing, so I got plenty of time to “perfect” my spinning skills (I actually ripped the yarn a few times…although that’s easily fixed, I think :D). Then came the best part. The artists started to showcase tapestry after tapestry for us, in hopes of selling some. And of course, how could we resist.

I bought a small piece with tessellations of fish on it – you can see a picture of the bigger version of that tapestry on photobucket. And since it is a traditional design, it is not signed, but rather belongs to the culture as a whole.

Finally, we arrived at Mitla. I learned that Mitla was probably inhabited by the survivors of Monte Alban, who came east after the river dried up in the west (although this is just a hypothesis). The inhabitants built a plaza in the model of Monte Alban, but this time covered it completely with red coloring. Also, the detail on the walls at Mitla, which definitely rivals that on the walls of Monte Alban, is so intricate and precise, it’s hard to believe that all these stones were brought from 12 km away with no beasts of burden or machine, and were chiseled by hand.

Also, all the structures at Mitla are carefully designed to counter the shakes of earthquakes, because Oaxaca is a very seismic area. The roofs are separated from the walls by rocks, on which the roofs roll if an earthquake occurs. But the complexity of the design doesn’t stop there – the top of the main pyramid has four rooms, aligned to the tee with the compass directions. These rooms were only lighted by the sun, thus one room would be lit a time, as the sun moved across the sky. Talk about being energy smart! Also, unlike in Monte Alban, all the structures at Mitla were built simply by fitting stone on top of stone – no glue or paste needed. However, much of Mitla was destroyed by archeologists “poking around” in the area (poking around with dynamite, that is) and not much remains.

But what is interesting about that is right now, the Mitla I saw a few days ago, is only 5% reconstructed – everything else is exactly the way it was 1000+ years ago (whereas Monte Alban is about 50% reconstructed). And finally, the most interesting part is that Mitla was never abandoned, meaning the people living around the town are direct descendants of the ancient culture that created that Wonder of the World worthy palace.

July 23rd, 2008 - The Mother of ALL Parties

So in my previous posts I mentioned some long confusing, too-many vowels word that you probably ignored because you thought it was a typo. Well that was no typo. That was La Guelaguetza (pronounced G-yea-ll-a-get-dza).

Guelaguetza is a tradition exchange between the indigenous groups of Oaxaca, a Thanksgiving and Christmas in one, if you will (although the official celebration only became commercialized in the 1950s). Thus, for the month of July all the 13 native groups of Oaxaca come to share their culture – which includes dances, costumes, songs, and best of all: food. So far, I’ve tried chapulines (fried grasshoppers), all types of chiles, and tortillas with everything from meat to concoctions of cheese, vegetables, and sauces in them (aka enchiladas on steroids).

However, perhaps the biggest, or should I say, most obvious, celebration of Guelaguetza takes place in the streets and theatres of Oaxaca. On Saturday, after I returned from Mitla, I met up with my intercambio amiga Breeze, and we walked a pretty hefty distance to the start of La Calenda – the commencing parade of Guelaguetza.

Now, most people watched the parade from the crowded streets. But since Breeze used to dance for La Guelaguetza and has connections, we got to march right in the parade along with the traditional groups! You can see the pictures on photobucket of just how crowded the streets were. But what you should really look at is the beauty of the costumes. All those dresses are hand made and worked on to perfection, because this festival demands only the best. My favorite parts were when the women danced and spun, because then the dresses would do a dance of their own.

One of my favorites was the dance of the torros – in which the man holds a red scarf like a matador and the women rushes at him like a bull…and actually knocks him over. So, the entire dance is spent knocking the guys to the ground! (sorry, boys)

My other favorite was the fishermen – a group of men lead by a guy with a large plastic bass on his head twisting it too and fro like a diving dolphin – who would throw nets, actual fishing nets, at the crowd. I didn’t know what was going on at first, but when I found myself under a net with some strangers and a fisherman standing there laughing at me, I quickly caught on.

So we marched for a good mile, if not two, and finally the parade ended, and I went home to get some rest for the next day’s festivities….because in retrospect, boy did I need it.

Now that the official festivities had begun, a snowball effect of parties took (and is still in the process of taking) over the city. Sunday morning, Breeze and I went to La Plaza de los Danzas to take some free dance classes, however they were cancelled because of the stage that had been set up in the Plaza for Guelaguetza (although I’m convinced that it was actually because everyone was so tired). So instead we took a scenic walk down to the Zocolo (the center of the city), near which a bicycle race was going on that morning. So of course, we stood in the sidelines and cheered on the racers – and if you check on photobucket you’ll see this one funny picture of the winner right as he crossed the finish line (it’s even funnier to see the expression on the faces of the guys behind him).

We then went to see a free outdoor concert of Susana Harp – a folkloric singer who belts out in Spanish, Zapotec, and Mixtec! She’s really popular here in Oaxaca, not only because she’s a local girl, but also because she’s SO AMAZING!!! I’ll try to post videos of her singing, it’s genuinely angelic.

Then, after resting and lunching with the family, my friends and I went to see Donaji – la leyenda. This is the legend of Princess Donaji, the last Zapotec princess, and her death and reincarnation. The dancing, the energy, the action was awesome. (I can’t say it enough, but check out the pictures!) In fact, it kind of reminded me of Lion King – down to the detail of using a real live baby as the “baby Donaji.” And to top it all off, they set fireworks off all over the stadium. For better or for worse, I was sitting right under the fireworks, so I actually didn’t know if I was going to make it home that day, but it turned out of to be fine. (Don’t worry, mom!) And they even had fireworks I hadn’t seen before, like this shower of fireworks that literally encapsulated an entire tree in white sparks for a full five minutes. It was absolutely phenomenal.

But wait, there’s more.

Finally Monday, the day everyone had been waiting for, came. This was July 21^st at last. This was the Guelaguetza.

To get to the festival, one needs to climb a ridiculously long staircase (all this city walking did not prepare me for that monster of a climb) and then try to squeeze through the can of sardines that is the entrance way. Reason for crowding: I don’t know, but I think it has something to do with little logistical planning on the part of the officials and a lot of popularity among the people on the part of the festival. Thus, after standing in what was really just a mash pit for half an hour, we finally pushed through to our seats – and we got some of the best seats in the house (center front, and right by the Governor of Oaxaca).

For a while we just listened to live music and watched this massive outdoor auditorium fill up to the brink with people from all over the world, because this is really popular among the tourists (which I guess should go without saying). After almost an hour of anticipation, the show began with none other than people giving stuff away, in the tradition of the Guelaguetza. They gave away hats, and although I didn’t get one, I wasn’t too upset because there were a lot more treats to come.

Next came Diosa Centeotl – the elected physical embodiment of Guelaguetza. She was a beautiful girl in a gorgeous native dress and was the perfect beginning to a wonderful festival.

Then the action started…..

But I decided to write this part in Spanish. For those that are upset, don’t be. The Guelaguetza is better told in pictures – and I have them posted on photobucket for your leisure (also, I’ll get my friends’ pictures, too, to add to the variety). And also bear in mind that the performance of the Guelaguetza is very similar to La Calenda, so if you’ve been following my blog – you’ve already heard about 80% of what happened.

And for you Spanish speakers, enjoy, (y no rei a cerca de mi espanol mucho, por favor):

July 26th, 2008 - Coming Soon…

Hey ya’ll, I’m sorry I haven’t been posting since I promised my Spanish masterpiece, but I’ve finished it (and all the other entries following it, I’m just waiting for my teacher to check it for me so that I don’t post something that’s totally gramatically incorrect….although I sincerely hope it’s not).

So look for my final few posts in the following days….

Thanks for your patience.

August 1st, 2008 - Continuing On

So while my Spanish piece about Bani, la Calenda, and Guelaguetza is in review, I decided to just post all of my other blog entries and then post the last one when it’s finished. Enjoy:

So I realize that I’m posting this very late, but I figure sometime is better than never.

Last Friday we went on an excursion to San Bartolo Coyotepec, Ocotlan de Moreles, y San Martin Tilcajete. Now, remember how my last excursion was to Mitla and along the way we made a stop at Teotitlan del Valle (more commonly referred to as Tapetas) where we saw how natives produce the luxurious carpets of Oaxaca? Well this trip was that times three!

Our first stop – Coyotepec – is the village at which Oaxacaquenos use ancient techniques to make ceramic pottery. This was a forgotten village, a place where the methods of pottery were passed down from generation to generation and were never interrupted, but was unknown by the rest of the world. Traditionally Coyotepec made the pots for water carrying and mezcal and tequila storage, but after synthetic materials were invented, Coyotepec literally fell off the map. That was until Dona Rosa Real, an extraordinary woman who discovered a method to make the ceramic pots shine – thus rejuvenating the whole craft. Since then, Coyotepec has grown in fame, having been visited by Franklin D. Roosevelt, Jimmy Carter, and others, as well as droves of tourists. At the village we watched one man take us through the 30-day pottery making process in about 20 minutes and then we had time to wander around the HUGE gift shop. I bought a few figurines and a silbato – which is a whistling toy that all Oaxacan children play with. I decided that I have to get my sister one.

We then headed off to Ocotlan, which is the site of Rodolfo Morales’ home. Here is one of his pieces that I really like; it’s called Nina con Bandera, or, Girl with Flag: As soon as I hopped off the van I ran to his home, which is now an exhibit in and of itself, even though I didn’t get to visit the gallery that actually shows his original works. But let me tell you, his home is enough to make your jaw drop. As you walk in there’s a beautiful gate that casts a surprisingly welcoming shadow on the front corridor. Once you pass this masterpiece of welded metal, you enter the courtyard, which is a traditional Oaxacan home feature. However, this was no traditional courtyard. It was OVERFLOWING with fauna of all types – trees, flowers, shrubs, you name it, they had it. And the way the sunlight hit the leaves and then bounced off the tiles on the ground made it all the more magical. I then proceeded to the send floor, which had a view of the entire city. My only feeling was that all it was missing was a view of the ocean. And to top it all off, the decedents of Morales that live there now keep a peacock as a pet. How very artistic.

After the house, I went to the huge market that defines Ocotlan, and went straight for the barbeque section. Along the way I passed fruits dancing with color and mountains of chiles and chapolines. Although I couldn’t find the barbeque stand, my friend later gave me a taste of her meal, and it was the most delicious barbeque I’ve ever had. Really. EVER.

Finally, we were off to the final stop on our tour – Tilcajete, which is the town of wood carving. When we came, there was a man carving a branch in front of our eyes, and he was explaining that he doesn’t plan what animal it will be and then cut a branch off of a tree – instead he feels what the branches he has already cut can develop into, and then, as he said, acts as the medium to transform it to what it should be. There is a name that I’ve forgotten, but it describes the assortment of mythical creatures that are often carved out of the wood, and if you check out the photos on photobucket, you’ll see just how creative they can get. I brought back some cuerpo espines (porcupines) for my friends, each carved and painted to perfection.

I find it amazing how creative and resourceful people can be – and that day I saw in three, no four if you count Morales’ artwork, prime examples of the beauty of the handmade. Especially for someone who’s used to processed, manufactured, and assembled goods, it really makes you pause and appreciate that this cultures is still thriving.

August 2nd, 2008 - Letting the sunshine in on the children of Oaxaca

Back in February when I was choosing between study abroad programs in Spain, Argentina, or Mexico I was having a really difficult time deciding where to go. They all seemed so great and interesting (and equally expensive….hehehehe). But one program had something that the other two didn’t have. That was the chance to give back to the community the welcome and kind heartedness that it gave you. That’s why I picked Oaxaca.

Here I have the opportunity to volunteer at CRIT – Centro de Rehabilitación Infantil Teletón, which translates to the Rehabilitation Children Center Teletón. This is a huge interdisciplinary clinic that treats children with neuro-musculo-skeletal conditions. Now, if you’ve read my “about me” page, I’m sure it says that I’m pretty much set on becoming a physical therapist/orthopedist. And that I love volunteering. So badda-bing! – CRIT is the place for me.

Basically, my job at CRIT is to occupy the kids while they wait to be seen by the doctor(s) or take care of the child while the parent has to go get the car from the parking lot or needs to use the bathroom, etc. Truthfully, I couldn’t ask for a better way to spend my time. Last Thursday I played in the waiting room reading, racing, and just laughing with the most adorable little guys. The transformation in atmosphere in that room from bored and in pain to happy and feeling great was instant and magical. There was one boy in particular that stuck out in my mind. When we got to the room, he was falling over into his mother’s lap from boredom and I assume from feeling a little ill. So I took a book (something easy for both me and him to understand) and asked him if he wanted to read with me. Immediately his face brightened up and he started smiling and nodding. So we read ¿Que hay abajo de mi cama? and afterwards had some carreras (races) with other waiting children. And let me tell you, it wasn’t just the kids who were having a great time, the parents, too, were smiling and laughing along with us, because it must be fantastic to see your ailing child forget about their condition for a while and just have some fun (especially laughing at my Spanish, which we all got a kick out of).

It might sound horrible, but I think I had more fun that day than the kids did, because not only did I laugh with them, but I felt so fulfilled and good about myself afterwards, that it seems like while their life was brightened up for a few hours, mine was brightened up for at least a few days.

Oh and by the way, I’d like to share some history about CRIT. Teleton (it’s other name) is a charity funded organization (meaning no government support) which builds clinics such as this one in every state of Mexico. So far there have been eleven CRITS built around Mexico, and the goal to have one in every state of Mexico is slowly being approached. Patients many times cannot afford to pay the entirety of the cost of treatment, which is why most of the therapies are free or cost next to nothing. There is only one family in the Oaxacan CRIT that pays 70% of the cost of treatment – which is symbolic of the entire philosophy of CRIT. Furthermore, what makes their philosophy so fantastic is that the center does not believe that anyone deserves treatment – you must make the effort to earn it. Therefore, patient tardiness (for appointments) is not tolerated, and parents or guardians must accompany their children to every therapy. They also provide therapies strictly for parents – those being psychological treatments. Thus, the center runs a tight shift, but it is very efficient and helpful to the community. It’s encouraging to know that even in the worst situations of life, which do exist in Mexico, one can find beacons of light like this to keep hope and progress going. It just shows how powerful the human spirit to help others can be.

August 4th, 2008 - Natural Wonders

So I’ve talked a lot about the man made aspects of Oaxaca – the churches, the markets, the cultures, the music, the festivals, and so on. But I haven’t really spent any time describing the nature that’s all around me.

On Sunday, I went to Hierve el Agua (“water boils”), which is a group of rock formations that looks like a waterfall. But before I delve into that, let me explain the ride to the “falls.” Oaxaca is a valley city, surrounded by gorgeous mountains on all sides. That means that every drive is a scenic drive. We passed awe inspiring rock formations, fields and fields of agave plants (the plant Mezcal is made from), and we even could see cave paintings from the highway (check all those photos out on photobucket). Then, to get to the falls, we had to take some country roads, which was fun for me, the person sitting in the back of the van (forget Six Flags, go for a car ride in Mexico!). As we ascended the mountain, we again had magnificent views everywhere we turned, and this time we even had some donkeys greet us along the road. Also, we saw an entire side of a mountain covered with palm trees, which was a strange sight at 11,000 feet altitude. But hey, rocks looking like waterfalls isn’t exactly “normal” either.

Finally, we got to the falls. There was about a 10 minute hike to the spot, but believe me, it was worth it. Please check out the pictures on photobucket, because I’m afraid that my words would not even begin to do that view justice.

Once we got to the spot, (I forgot to mention that there’s are two pools to swim in right at the edge of the “falls”) we immediately jumped into the cool water. The best part about these pools is that their edges are right on the edges of the falls, so if you swim over to the far corners you can look right over the side of the mountain. The rocks (I’m guessing they’re limestone) have been carved to have a texture like stalagmites/stalactites, and a trickle of water from the pools runs over the edge to constantly smooth out any rough edges. From a distance, it looks like either water or ice that just appeared on the side of that cliff. I wasn’t told how they formed, why they formed, and what from, but I’m sure you could find all of that on google (and if I had the time, I would). But there’s one thing you can’t question, and that’s the beauty of Hierve de Agua.

August 5th, 2008 - It’s peanut butter jelly time…Oaxacan style!

Here is Oaxaca, food is a big thing. Literally and figuratively. So, it makes sense that if you come to live in Oaxaca, you have to learn how to make at least a few traditional dishes. That’s why on our last Monday and Tuesday in Oaxaca, the six of us spent our afternoon in a beautiful Oaxacan kitchen.

Let me first put out there that I don’t like to cook. I like home-cooked meals, just not the preparation part (it’s probably because one too many times I’ve nearly poisoned myself eating my own “cuisines”). But in Oaxaca, even the preparation was a joy. On Monday we made estofado, which is chicken with a type of mole. My jobs varied: first I was chopping onions, then I was stirring the mole, and then I was using a mortar and pestle to ground up black pepper. After about 40 minutes of cooking, we were all just about ready to eat whatever was on the stove at the moment, but in the nick of time everything came together on our plates and lunch was served with some hot and toasty tortillas. It was fantastic! Granted, the spicy mole (which wasn’t that spicy, it was just me) caused me to drink about 10 cups of water, but I felt satisfied and satiated afterwards. Now, all I have to do is reproduce it at home. Pan comida!

On Tuesday, we made guacamole and tortillas. And when I say made, I mean we made the tortillas. My friend and I first started out as the fire builders – piling charcoal and twigs into a special stove to heat the pan on which the tortillas would be cooked. Then, we started to press the tortilla dough in these special “pressers,” always making sure not to make them too thick or too thin. Meanwhile, I started pealing and mushing avocados for the centerpiece dish :D. At long last, we finished with the tortillas – which, I don’t know about everyone else, but certainly burned my fingers off during the flipping procedure – and the guacamole, and it was time to eat! I have no words for how good that food was, and knowing that we just made it from scratch in 30 minutes made it that much sweeter. Of course, I’m saying my cooking abilities even come close to those of a typical Oaxaqueno, but I’m certainly glad that I can at least make the most basic and the tastiest dishes around.

August 7th, 2008 - If you like Pina Coladas

All good things must come to an end, I know. But what better way to end an amazing summer with a three day trip to world renowned beaches? So, that’s just what we did.

Thursday morning, and I mean morning, a van picked us up for the airport. Once we got there, we nonchalantly walked into the main building thinking our plane was departing from there. Wrong. We were leaving from a tiny 1-gate building in a plane that was a wee bit small – basically, it had one propeller at the nose. But hey, it was the coolest thing I’ve ever flown in! And all the stories that my Oaxacan friends told me about it being insanely bumpy and scary were totally false, or at least I slept through any turbulence. Once we landed, we were off to the beach. We happened to be staying at Zicatela, which is a professional surfing beach with waves that reach up to 10 meters!! That’s like 25 feet!!! For better or worse, the biggest waves I saw were about 10 feet, but I still did not swim in that water. Instead, we walked about five minutes along the beach to more tranquil water and had a great time there swimming, sleeping, and drinking coconut milk.

I just want to take some time to describe the beaches there. The sound of the ocean there is one I’ve never heard anywhere else – not in New York, in Cancun, in Dominican Republic, or even in Vladivostoc in Russia. The power and rage of the waves was terrifying yet calming all at once. The water was soft and welcoming, and the sand burned your toes only in hopes of getting you into that fantastic water faster. And then, there were the rocks. The beautiful, strong, and perfectly placed rocks that the water would embrace with foam and splashes ever so often. You know when you look up at clouds and try to see shapes in them? Or when you look up at the night sky and spot constellations? Well, the rocks were no different. At Ventanilla, another beach, there’s a rock that has been carved out into a window, hence the name Ventanilla (ventana is window). The rocks on Zicatela formed serpents, hands, eyes, books, and flowers (for me). Just watching that water hit the rocks with the force of gods and then slip away like silk, leaving the rock looking stronger than before would entertain me for hours.

And walking along the adoquin, the “main street” if you will, was also a joy. It reminded me of my first days in Oaxaca on Alcala, discovering little stores and big stores, fruit vendors and restaurants. No matter where you looked, you had a great view of something, whether it was the city, the beach, the ocean, or the lighthouse on the top of a subtle hill.

But as I said, all good things must come to an end, and all great things must come to a devastating finale, for no one in their right mind would want to leave the heaven that is Puerto Escondido. So in other words, I really enjoyed my stay.